Abundant Nature, Sake and Craft: The Simple Pleasures of Chill Time in Yamanaka Onsen

Slow strolls and hot springs soaks are a balm for city-stressed souls

After just a few weeks of summer heat, this year’s rainy season in Japan already feels like a distant memory — but a good one.

Through a combination of serendipity and creative scheduling, I managed to work remotely from Yamanaka, a mountain onsen town in the Kaga region of Ishikawa Prefecture, just in time to report on author Hannah Kirshner’s kitchen studio open house and book launch party. (Japan Times has a paywall on the article now, but here’s the link FYI.)

Even before setting foot inside the stately old samurai residence where there’s a stellar cafe and museum, I was hooked on Mugen-An’s calming atmosphere.

The lush setting, historic charm, excellent local sake, and surprising convenience (20 minutes by taxi from the Kaga Onsen station of the Hokuriku Shinkansen) are all reasons I’m seriously thinking about going again later this year to experience the fall colors. If you’re in the vicinity of Kanazawa, this can (and should) be an easy extension to your trip.

Yamanaka Onsen is the kind of place where slowing down and savoring the moment comes more easily. There are cinematic strolling paths along a wooden river gorge where the fresh air and sounds of flowing water are a balm for city-stressed souls. Small shops sell souvenirs actually made there, from pottery to paper. At the center of town is its public bath Kiku no Yu, famed for its healing waters and a long-ago visit by celebrated poet Matsuo Basho. And an exquisite culture of craft — especially woodturning — invites admiration for the skill and focus of the many artisans living in the area.

Visitors to Mokkei’s open house helped themselves to homemade dorayaki (bean paste-filled pancaks sandwiches) and tea made from freshly harvested herbs and dried cherry blossoms.

I stayed at Bouquet, a lovely AirBnb where I had the whole freshly renovated upstairs space all to myself. The quiet solo time was great for focused work, lounging, and recharging, but I had an equally great time getting to know my hosts, Ariya and Yoshi. I loved hearing their story as a creative couple, meeting their sweet children, and getting a glimpse into their Yamanaka life. No doubt, I am rooting for them to keep building their dreams!

A peaceful stay at Bouquet; the signature unagi bowl at Ryotei Meigetsuro; epic sake paired with addictive bites at Washu Bar Engawa; a tasting at Matsuura Sake Brewery.

Sake culture is another big appeal of Yamanaka Onsen, where the pristine mountain environment offers the kind of delicious water that all good brews require and vast stretches of rice fields flank the road heading towards the valley. I spent a long, leisurely evening eating dinner at the counter at Washu Bar Engawa, chatting with other guests while falling head over heels for famed proprietor Yusuke Shimoki’s brilliant sake pairings.

Matsuura Sake Brewery also sits right in the center of town, offering tastings in a bright, high-ceilinged space with modern farmhouse style. Along with their full range of sake, they sell the new Japanese-language edition of Hannah’s book, which details her experiences as an intern there. Originally released in English as Water, Wood, and Wild Things, it’s a collection of thoughtful stories about how Hannah built a life in Yamanaka and learned about local food and craft traditions though its eclectic, talented inhabitants. I recommend it as an armchair immersion if you’re craving a view into rural Japan life.

Matsuura Sake Brewery’s handsome retail and tasting space.

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Oh! On a completely different note, my darling friend Pavle Milic — passionate Arizona winemaker, restaurateur, and storyteller— invited me to be a guest on his podcast. Since he visited Japan for the first time last year, the memories of his trip have turned into some serious creative fuel for his imagination. We had a lot to discuss! Listen to the full episode here.

It was a blast talking about how a small-town kid’s cultural fascination and yearning to move abroad persisted through many years, finally leading to this life where yours truly has the privilege of sharing what she’s learned along the way.

Thanks, as always, for reading.